Hanalei, Kauai, Hawaii
Hanalei Town sits on the North Shore of Kauai, one of the least
developed and most beautiful islands in the Hawaiian chain. The local
Hawaiians, or “Ka poe Hawaii,” maintain a strong sense of identity and
connection to their Polynesian ancestry, making this the perfect place to catch
some waves while learning about the long, and sometimes fraught, history of the
50th state.
The town is surrounded by diverse wave-riding spots, from the
beginner-friendly waves of the Hanalei Pier (watch out for local kids jumping
off the end) to expert-only reef breaks where experience and a healthy respect
for the local pecking order are prerequisites. “There are many waves on the
island that are not suitable for visitors,” says Evan Valiere, one of the many
world-class surfers from this island (a list that also includes Bruce and the
late Andy Irons). “But come with a good vibe and respectful attitude, and it
will be a place that you will never forget.”
Tofino, British Columbia
California may be one of the surfing world’s spiritual centers,
but one of the surfiest towns on the West Coast of North America is far to the
north. Tofino, British Columbia, is an old fur trading and logging town that
just happens to sit in one of the prettiest spots on Vancouver Island.
Clayoquot Sound, compromised of nearly 350,000 hectares of land and ocean, is
cool, misty, full of wildlife, and utterly spectacular. Although winters can be
harsh, the spring and summer bring warmer air temperatures and almost nonstop
markets, festivals, and cultural events.
“All of our beaches are beginner friendly, especially in the
summer,” says local professional Peter Devries, a man who currently surfs
better in head-to-toe neoprene than perhaps anyone in the world. “The huge
tides flatten out the beaches and create very mellow beginner waves. There is
the odd exception where the banks can change and get powerful and hollow, but
there is always somewhere that is good for beginners. South Chesterman Beach and
Long Beach are great places to learn.”
Taghazout, Morocco
Taghazout, Morocco, is a surfing oasis in the middle of a long,
rugged coastline that is inundated with waves. This ancient Berber encampment
became an outpost for European adventurers trekking into southern Morocco in
the 1960s. And throughout that same period, surfers “discovered” the region and
set up shop in Taghazout. Today, there are a lot of French and Spanish surfers
mingling with the native Moroccans and Berbers in what still feels like a frontier
town on the edge of the desert. The waves are almost always long-period ground
swells—which means great shape and plenty of power—and the winds consistently
blow offshore.
Beginners should start at beaches like Panoramas or Crocodiles
and work their way up to the point breaks, which are considered among the best
in the world. To sample the crème de la crème, go for a surf at Anchor Point or
Killer Point and learn why surfers often describe the waves there as “freight
trains.”
Encinitas, California
No area of the United States says “surfing” quite like Southern
California; and no SoCal town is quite as surfy as Encinitas. It’s an easygoing
mix of West Coast counterculture—from skaters and snowboarders to surfers—and
New Age spiritualists. Aside from having some of the oldest and most
well-respected surf shops in the country, it is also the home of La Paloma Theatre, which in its 84-year history has
premiered countless surf films.
For a few waves to yourself, cruise down to Moonlight Beach,
which supports a wide range of surfers, from beginners on its central sandbars
to more advanced surfers at its north and south ends. “I love the energy of
Encinitas,” says local surfer and body surfing guru Ed Lewis, who has opened
the world of body surfing to a much larger audience through the shaping of handplanes. “As you drive up the freeway, you can feel
the energy of it,” he says. “It has everything you could ask for: culture,
great food, spirituality, great surf spots, a long history of surfing, surfers and
shapers—and the people are friendly and happy.”
Bundoran, Ireland
Ireland, known among surfers as “Europe’s cold-water Indonesia”
should be on the bucket list of every surfer. And Bundoran should be the start
of any surfing adventure on the Emerald Isle. This centuries-old fishing
village catches just about any swell that steamrolls through the North Atlantic
and onto a smattering of beaches and reefs that suit different levels of
surfers.
The water may be cold, but the pubs and locals are always warm,
serving up national specialties such as Guinness and oysters to the tune of
traditional Irish music. “Bundoran is a town with many sides and the real
Bundoran can only be found with the help of the locals,” says Pete Craig,
surfer and owner of the outfitter Bundoran Surf Co. The main surfing beach is
Tullan Strand, but if you want to venture out, ask locals about the surrounding
reefs and beaches, which work on a variety of swells.
Florianopolis, Brazil
With 4,655 miles of coastline and an increasingly surf-crazy
populace, Brazil is poised to become the next great epicenter of global surf
culture. Nowhere is this better exemplified than Brazil’s island capital of
surfing, Florianópolis, or Floripa, as the locals prefer. There are 42
different beaches to suit all surfing tastes, from the novice-friendly Barra Da
Lagoa to the heavier Joaquina Beach, where they sometimes hold professional
surfing competitions. The only thing more consistent than the Southern
Hemisphere swells is the nightlife. Expect to surf a lot of afternoons, because
the parties go late.
Byron Bay, Australia
In an entire continent of surf towns, Byron Bay stands out as
one of the spiritual and historical homes of surfing in what is, pound for
pound, perhaps the greatest surfing nation in the world. Despite a tendency
toward the upscale, Byron is at heart a hippie town that favors live bands,
relaxed cafes that source local ingredients, and plenty of “all natural”
everything. Combine that with the naturally cheerful disposition of many Aussies
and you won’t find better waves in a more pleasant setting anywhere in the
world.
The town’s main wave, the Pass, is a classic right-hand point
break that accommodates all levels of surfers, though it can get crowded on
good swells. Beginners should stay on the beach and more advanced surfers can
head south to Broken Head, which has great beach breaks and other classic
points.
Biarritz, France
Biarritz is the only surf town in the world with a royal
history. In 1854, Empress Eugénie convinced her husband, Napoleon III, to visit
the area. They then bought the land and built a palace on the beach, which made
Biarritz one of the hottest resort towns in Europe. Screenwriter Peter Viertel
brought France its first surfboard in 1956, when he came to shoot location
shots for The
Sun Also Rises.
Still considered the birthplace of European surfing, Biarritz is
a nice combination of French high culture and SoCal surf culture, putting a
decidedly surfy spin on the notion of joie de vivre. Start surfing on La Grande
Plage (the Big Beach) in front of the town center. If it gets too crowded,
local Cape Breton transplant David Hanguehard recommends checking out
surrounding beaches such as La Côtes des Basques, Anglet, and Guethary.
Shonan, Japan
When you think of wave-rich Pacific islands, Japan doesn’t
immediately jump to mind. It doesn’t have the consistency of Hawaii or the
death-defying reef breaks of Tahiti. But its west coast is home to hundreds of
miles of dark-sand beaches, and its craggy coastline hides reefs, points, and
river mouths for all level of surfers.
“My hometown, Shonan, is the birthplace of Japanese surfing,”
says professional big-wave surfer Takayuki Wakita. “Like many Japanese seaside
towns, it started out as a fishing town. But now it’s one of the capitals of
surfing for the entire country because the waves are good and it’s only an hour
away from Tokyo.” The change started in 1955, when the Japanese author Shintaro
Ishihara published Season
of the Sun, about a group of Japanese teenagers
living in rich hedonism on the sands of Shonan. While it didn’t describe any
surfers, Wakita’s forefathers started riding waves soon after. Don’t expect
fish tacos and English surf slang in Shonan. Do expect hundred-year-old
temples, local festivals, and scenery right out of a Hokusai wood-block print.
Muizenberg, South Africa
Located in a country known for cold water, heavy waves, and
sharks, Muizenberg, South Africa, is an oasis of gentle rollers, friendly
locals, and beachside cafes. And don’t forget about the local wine. “Muizenberg
is the best ‘learn to surf’ beach in the world,” says Tim Conibear, founder of
Isiqalo, a Cape Town organization that teaches kids from low-income
neighborhoods to surf. “The attitude in the water is also super-mellow, with a
general acceptance of all watercrafts and abilities. Shark spotters keep you
safe, so you don't need to worry. For heavier waves, take a walk toward Kalk
Bay, where there's a serious reef. Danger Reef is also a little left-breaking
wave that's worth a stop.”
La Paloma, Uruguay
Uruguayos prefer to fly below the radar, which is why you
probably didn’t know that their Atlantic coastline is one of the most pristine
and beautiful in the Americas. Although famous resort towns such as Punta del
Este have long been a haven for Argentine and European travelers, the rest of
the coastline is reserved for locals. La Paloma is a dusty little beach town
where Uruguayans go to surf, drink maté tea, and grill large hunks of grass-fed
beef over open flames.
“It’s an enchanting little town where everyone is
friendly,” says Uruguay’s best professional surfer Marco Giorgi. “One of the
best parts is that it has surf spots for all levels of rider. And regardless of
which way the wind is blowing, it’s almost always surfable somewhere.”
Montauk, New York
Montauk used to be one of the East Coast surf scene’s best kept
secrets—a place where Northeastern surfers could escape the coastal crush, surf
a variety of great waves by day, and drink with salty sea dog fishermen at
night. Since the Hamptons jet set has started to move in, things have changed a
bit, but thankfully, Montauk remains a sleepy fishing town at the end of the
Long Island Rail Road line—with just enough glamour from New York City to keep
things interesting.
With the exception of Biarritz, France, there is no other
surf town in the world where you can surf great waves all day and rub shoulders
with movie stars on patio bars at night. When hurricanes or the much-loved
nor’easter storm systems batter the coast, there is no better place on the
Eastern seaboard for a surfer.
Wrightsville Beach, North Carolina
Wrightsville Beach is a small town tucked away between the salt
marshes, sandy barrier islands, and old wooden piers of the American southeast.
“It’s a great surf town for two main reasons—attitude and access,” says Mike
Barden, a native and owner of the seminal East Coast surf shop Surf City Surf
Shop, which has been in business since 1978. “We have a pretty
laid-back, understanding attitude. You don’t ever really get vibed here. You
can just show up and surf, which is something that you can’t always do in big
surf towns, such as Huntington Beach, or even some towns on the East Coast.”
New Smyrna Beach, Florida
What do you get when you combine 13 miles of beach, 300 surfable
days a year, warm water, and great fishing? The laid-back center of
high-performance surfing known as New Smyrna Beach. The seasonal tourist center
is famous for its consistency and for its steep, wedging waves that break near
its inlet. They offer perfect ramps for aspiring East Coast professionals and
hot local talent to do all manner of trickery.
Visitors should take advantage of the less crowded parts of the
beach away from the inlet, including highlights like Sapphire Road, 27th
Avenue, and Mary McLeod Bethune Beach Park. If you feel like getting schooled
by some of the best surfers on the East Coast, head down to the inlet when a
northeast swell is tearing in off the Atlantic, crack open a beverage, and
watch the local guys soar above the lips of waves.
Santa Cruz, California
Santa Cruz is a little town with a long surfing history. Its
marquee spot, Steamer Lane, was a proving ground for aspiring West Coast
big-wave riders in the 1950s. Men like Peter Cole, Ricky Grigg, and the Van
Dyke brothers rode giant winter swells here on wooden longboards—sans leashes
and wetsuits—in order to practice for the even more powerful waves of Hawaii.
It was this penchant for wintertime surfing that lead Jack O’Neill, who lost an
eye in an accident at the Lane, to develop the modern surfing wetsuit.
You don’t have to brave ship-capsizing surf or risk either of
your eyes to enjoy Santa Cruz. Tucked between sea cliffs and redwood forests,
this NorCal gem boasts a fantastic surfing museum and 11 surf spots, including
the Californian classic, Pleasure Point.
San Sebastián, or Donostia in the local language, is the cultural capital of Spain’s
vibrant Basque country. Though not as renowned for waves as its northeastern
neighbors in France, it more than makes up for it by being a center for music,
cinema, and molecular gastronomy for all of Europe.
“Donostia is a marvelous place with a lot to offer both in and
out of the water,” says local surfer and city tourism official Jokin Arroyo
Uriarte. “It’s a small city where you can surf at Zurriola Beach then walk over
to the old part of the city for a few pintxos (Basque referring to small portions like tapas), a couple
glasses of beer, and an incredibly authentic ambiance. Apart from having one of
the most beautiful bays in the world, Bahía de la Concha, the city has a love
affair with surfing and tons of infrastructure for the visiting surfer.”
Nosara, Costa Rica
In a wave-rich country, Nosara stands out as the surf town par
excellence. Warm water, friendly locals, endless beaches, powerful river
mouths, long point breaks, and virtually year-round high swells make it a
veritable surfing Disneyland—without all the lines and overzealous parents. Located
on the coast of a Blue Zone (a place where a large percentage of local people
live to a hundred years old or more), Nosara offers the kind of lifestyle that
most surfers only dream about. It is a perennial favorite among traveling
surfers of all levels for both its waves and relaxed pace of life.
Paia, Maui, Hawaii
Most Hawaiian towns are surf towns, but none have the artsy,
eccentric vibe of Paia on Maui’s North Shore. What started as a sugarcane
boomtown is now a hangout for artists, surfers, and wind sport enthusiasts from
around the world. Although not known as a surfing mecca like Oahu’s North
Shore, partially due to the daily side-shore winds that shred the lineups most
afternoons, this actually works in favor of visiting surfers, according to local
pro surfer Zack Howard: “There are a lot of great surfers here, but in general,
the level is lower than in places like Oahu, and that means there are a lot of
waves for everyone.”
Novices should check out Paia Bay. If you want to rub shoulders
with Maui’s elite, paddle out at Hookipa—just make sure your shoulders can
handle a workout, as it doesn’t break close to shore. If you happen to be in
town during a big winter swell, drive west down the Hana Highway and pull off
between mile markers 13 and 14. From the bluff you can watch an international
crew of big-wave hellmen tow into waves breaking over the outer reef known as
Jaws.
Raglan, New Zealand
The surfing world first learned about Raglan, or Whaingaroa as
it’s known in the local Maori language, when its empty, seemingly endless
left-hand point breaks were featured in Bruce Brown’s seminal surfing film, The
Endless Summer. Although you can expect more of
a crowd in the lineup today than the Endless Summer boys encountered in 1966, the town itself is a throwback
to the golden days of surfing, according to Charlie Young, the director of the
Raglan Surfing School. “The old vibe still exists here,” he says. “People still
look out for each other.”
Lower pressure systems generated in the Roaring Forties (an area
between 40° and 49° south latitude that produces some of the strongest and most
consistent swells in the world) sends waves to setups that include the
beginner- to intermediate-friendly Ngarunui Beach and the more advanced but
absolutely classic Manu Bay. When you aren’t in the water, Young recommends
checking the avant-garde music and art scene, Maori crafts stores, and locally
sourced restaurants and markets.
Bukit Peninsula, Bali
If you want to rub shoulders with the best surfers in the world while
surfing some of the best waves in the world, head to Bali. Unlike its more
touristy cousin, Kuta Beach, the Bukit Peninsula is a rural outpost of
limestone cliffs, pristine beaches, fearsome reef breaks, and hilltop temples
where Indonesian culture still dominates.
Beginner and intermediate surfers
should stick to beach breaks such as Dreamland. More experienced surfers need
to take a crack at two of the most famous waves in the world—Uluwatu and Padang
Padang. For Padang Padang, be sure to bring plenty of antiseptic for the
occasional run-in with the reef.